RoboSavvy Forum

Build help…

2007-11-26T15:54:19+01:00

Here's a pic of him built.

Got the RC working over the weekend - which makes a HUGE difference to the whole user experience. If anyone was thinking of buying a '1HV, I'd definitely recommend getting the KRC-1 at the same time.

I swapped the battery connectors for Deans, though might change them to bullet connectors next.

Problems so far?
• 1 dead servo (see arrow)
• a big lack of 'off the peg' motions - cartwheel etc
• walking also needs some work - i've got a couple of sample moves, but they're nothing like as smooth or natural as the ones i've seen on various 'net movie clips - if anyone has better walking motions PLEASE share them!
• still not worked out the different connections on the ras-2 and still not got it working - ie to do auto get-up moves
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Statistics: Posted by plingboot — Mon Nov 26, 2007 3:54 pm

Addtional detail

2007-11-21T19:13:15+01:00

The bracket on the left is the way up it needs to be on the servo (bottom)and the short sides of the bracket (with the holes in) surround the blue block which is then fixed inplace with three screws. The black blocks go on the servo output. I would send a photo but i never took one at the time.

Statistics: Posted by Kry10 — Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:13 pm

I know what they are!!!!

2007-11-21T19:05:08+01:00

I found them too! they are for the arms if you want to add the option of the arm twisting.with the addition of servos you attach the spare blue blocks and black blocks to the plates using the remaining screws . I tried it and realised its hands would be at shin level!! Looked more like and ape draggin his knuckles. Hope this has enlightened everyone!

Statistics: Posted by Kry10 — Wed Nov 21, 2007 7:05 pm

Build help…

2007-11-21T11:36:22+01:00

Here's a pic of the parts in question (crappy because i snapped to with my webcam). They're definitely not the ones for the waist servos - i checked and am sure i have the correct ones installed.

I carefully looked through the Japanese pdf twice last night and just can't see where they're used. They are however listed in the parts, but the japanese caption next to them may well read...

"these aren't used, we just put them in the box to confuse people who don't read japanese"
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Statistics: Posted by plingboot — Wed Nov 21, 2007 11:36 am

Build help…

2007-11-20T01:10:31+01:00

Its probably the 2 brackets that go on the bottom of the waist servos. The docs are not to clear on those. if they look like 2 tiny cake pans they on on the botttom of the 2 waist servos.

Statistics: Posted by Droid Works — Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:10 am

Build help…

2007-11-19T10:43:53+01:00

Problem sorted...

Foot servos mounted backwards.

switched them around and he's fine.

Still not found a home for the two ali brackets left in the parts box

Statistics: Posted by plingboot — Mon Nov 19, 2007 10:43 am

Build help…

2007-11-17T11:12:27+01:00

The most suspectable cause may be the initial position is wrong.
when you set the initial position ( with all the offset ZERO first ),
KHR1 should give a cross shape (pls confirm) ---- two hand lay horizonally.

Check the servo available motion range --
ensure when you move the slider of the servo the robot can move the parts to its allowable limit.

The standard slow walking should be okOK in a flat surface ( not in a carbinet )

Fast motion, Fast walk need the help of Gyro, have you installed it ?

The RED LED means it is under communication.

Statistics: Posted by Ray — Sat Nov 17, 2007 11:12 am

Build help…

2007-11-17T01:30:22+01:00

If the standard motion will not play properly then the home position isn't set properly. The way I set the home position is to set the values as the manual then change the servo position to be in the right position. Then it should work fine.

Bren

Statistics: Posted by Robo1 — Sat Nov 17, 2007 1:30 am

Build help…

2007-11-17T00:08:16+01:00

completed him this evening and with a little guess work managed to set the home position and register it as a home position.

next thing i did was try one of the motion files on the cd supplied.

i renamed them all and was able to open them and play them - but the results were very poor indeed.

he didn't manage to complete any of the moves without falling over.

ANY THOUGHTS?

Ive been through and checked each servo is in the correct socket and they are all ok.

I also tried individual positions from some of the files, but found that they just caused him to topple.

Should any of the servo channels be reversed? If so how do i do this?

I also guess that the flashing red light on the board indicates low battery?

Little bit miffed, but i'm sure i'll get there in the end.

Statistics: Posted by plingboot — Sat Nov 17, 2007 12:08 am

Build help…

2007-11-15T20:06:47+01:00

3. Lipoly packs
Any thoughts on swapping out the supplied pack for an 11.1v Lipoly pack? Can this be plugged striaght in (just 0.3V more) or should i use a regulator to be on the safe side?

I already use the 11.1V 1500mAH LiPo without the necessary of regulator,
playing for half a year. It seem OK.

But I find a hint, to take a big LiPo to KHR.
when you got the chest pastic cover, do not cut out the lower part,
by insert a spacer to the 3 rods, a big LiPo can be fitted.

Statistics: Posted by Ray — Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:06 pm

Build help…

2007-11-15T19:59:24+01:00

Here is the English translation of the 1HV manual

http://droidworks.org/KHR1HV.aspx

Statistics: Posted by Droid Works — Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:59 pm

Re: Build help…

2007-11-13T14:25:01+01:00

plingboot wrote:
1. Does anyone have a link to the English KHR-2HV manual?

http://www.kondo-robot.com/html/Info_En.html

Statistics: Posted by Alpha2 — Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:25 pm

Build help…

2007-11-13T14:15:50+01:00

Sorry I don't know the part number!

BUT, using my memory. If you look in the maplin Book it's on the left page, bottom right hand corner of the last page of regs. The book starts at the lowest amp rating and going up and these ones are the highest rating at 5A. You could ask the staff but there useless.

Or

If you want to order one mail order use RS or farnell and just search for a
12V voltage regulator or DC-DC convert and just find one with more then 3A.

Hope this helps.

Bren

Statistics: Posted by Robo1 — Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:15 pm

Build help…

2007-11-13T12:25:13+01:00

Hi Bren,
Don't suppose you have a maplin part number for that reg?
A quick search on their site didn't pick it up - just low voltage stuff.
Thanks, DS

Statistics: Posted by plingboot — Tue Nov 13, 2007 12:25 pm

Build help…

2007-11-13T11:54:16+01:00

Hi There

for you point 3, the lipo will charge above 12V and this is the cut off where the the servos get damaged, so a regulator is the way to go. Maplin has a 12V 5A reg for about £1 which is what I use. a 1000/1100mha will fit nicely in the main body.

Bren

Statistics: Posted by Robo1 — Tue Nov 13, 2007 11:54 am