Build new feet

[Meltdown]

Hi all,

I'd like to show my new build feet made on my cnc mill.
Hope you don't mind.
Material is Aluminium and Carbon.

Each foot contains:

1) A 7.4v 1600Mha Lipo cell.
2) A 7.4v to 6v converter 7.5 Amps
3) Warning circuitry and led when Lipo voltage falls to 4.75v
4) Switch for on/off and charging mode.
5) Fast charging connector so the cells don't have to be removed for charging.

So i have 3200mha of battery power now which is great.
Batteries in the feet makes the robot more stable.
Chest is now free for more electronics.

Cheers
Michael

[rudukai13]

Looks like it might have troubles walking with the extra width...Any problems so far?

[Meltdown]

The robot never walked better.
The width isn't a problem because i changed the robot extensively.
Also the KHR-1 had an original option part to make the feet bigger.
I used the same proportions as the option part for this mod.
It has hip servos too so the legs are a little wider apart.
The two last pictures show the legs as they are.

[Meltdown]

In case you meant weight then it's not a problem either.
I always found the battery in the chest more of a problem because the
standard robot tends to swing back and forth due to the battery in the chest.

Now the centre of gravity is much lower, the swing is virtually gone.
The two Li-Po batteries i use now are about the same weight as the normal single Ni-MH pack!
And has 12 times more capacity (operation time) then the KHR-2HV pack!

Wow!
167 views and only one comment.
Must be a bad mod, lol

[mkegruber]

Hi,

Could you tell me a bit more about the circuits you used for the battery.

i.e. converter and warning circuits.

Did you make them yourself (if yes, do you have a circuit diagram).

Or a link if you bought them?

Another question... how do you manage the power? Do you manually switch when the warning circuit indicates? Or is it automatic?

I wonder whether it would be possible to have to the first lithium switch to the 2nd when low, then have the 2nd switch to the chest NiMh when low?

Regards
Michael G

[limor]

yes.. would be great if you can list the parts and circuits you used for the LiPo solution

[Meltdown]

I'm not at home right now for at least a week.
I made the converter myself and bought the li-po low voltage warning device.
I will try to find the schematics again when i get back, it has been a year already since i made this.
The lipos don't change automatially yet but this could done for sure.

[ries]

Hi Meltdown,

a minor suggestion , but you have space in your feet for extra sensors, e.g. ultrasound for obstacle detection?

[Meltdown]

Hi Ries,

It's already pretty crammed in there but it's a good idea, maybe i can squeeze something in there.
Now what additional board do i need because my ordered RCB3 board (still not here!) has only 3 analogue inputs?
Those 3 are already taken.
I guess the new Manoi 32 sensor board can be used as it's compatible with the RCB3.
Does this Manoi board come with the necessary software that can drive these sensors?

[ries]

To which new manoi board are you referring (typenumber)?
I have currently a RCB3J (3 inputs) and i have the RCS-1HV (sensorboard).
I don't have them working together yet .
Currently have my KHR-1HV equipped with gyros and a ras.

if I want to add more sensors i need to get the RCS-1HV to working or
I need to change the setup, e.g. a kind of gumstix board that interfaces with ucontrollers that do servocontrol, sensor control, videoprocessing etc.
Or maybe the new manoi board that you mentioned.

[Meltdown]

If you have a KHR-1HV then you should have a RCB3-HV not the J version.
I thought the J version was sold only with KHR-2HV.
I thought RCS-1HV was only for the first KHR1 RCB1 controller but i could be wrong.
If it works with the RCB3 then i'm also interested in the RCS-1HV!

The Kyosho Manoi board, expensive but it's the shit!

http://www.trossenrobotics.com/kondo-ky ... board.aspx

[ries]

I saw that as well on the kondo site, that the KHR-1HV is delivered with the RCB-3HV. But I received the J version. Limor is checking this with Kondo at the moment, so hopefully i will receive the 3HV version.

I also think that the RCS-1HV is only for the RCB1 controller.
I didn't spent much time investigating if this will work with the RCB-3J, but I will do due time. First thing is digging through the h2h3j software and building motions and playing with the gyro's and ras.

The kyosho board looks nice, indeed too expensive, but if you want to have more sensors it's almost a must. Wonder how they pass the sensor values to the h2h software. Or can one use the Manoi software to control the KHR-1HV?.
Downloaded the manoi software but couldn't connect to the RCB-3J

Is their a topic concerning maintenance of your robot, couldn't find one?
I saw one mentioning loctide glue to glue the screws .
Do you need to tighten the screws once in a while? And to what extend, do I need to disassemble the robot completly?

When finished making some motions I will share them.

[grasshopper]

HI,
How can you tell the difference between RCB-3J and the RCB-3HV?

[ries]

That's a good question.
I don't know, so i checked the the software and the site of Kondo, and I have found the following table on this website:

http://64.233.179.104/translate_c?hl=en ... ate01.html

The version I have is RCB-3 V1.03 (2007/02/05), according to the above link, I have the RCB-3HV. I think the difference between the J and HV version is in the firmware version, because i see no difference in the J and HV version of the RCB-3.

Maybe Limor can confirm this?

I also checked the h2h3 part3 software and there are new options available (try to translate the manual to find out what these options can do for me).
Probably someone did already, but I cannot find it .

[grasshopper]

Thanks for the information, I had already looked at the information, but it tells me the upgrade path to version 1.1.a however physically and via software there may not be a way to tell?
How did you find out you had the RCB-3J as opposed to the RCB-3HV?