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Blue tooth khr-2

KHR-1, KHR-2HV, KHR-3HV, ICS servos, RCB controllers and other Kondo products
12 postsPage 1 of 1
12 postsPage 1 of 1

Blue tooth khr-2

Post by Robo1 » Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:37 am

Post by Robo1
Fri Jul 21, 2006 10:37 am

finally got my robot work, so it's about time I cut the anbilcal cord.

After reading some of the robonova post, I recon a
Bluetooth Modem - BlueSMiRFfrom spark fun would do the trick, but before I buy it I would welcome any sugestions from fellow khr-2 owners that have done this. some points that would be nice to have an answer on are.

- for now I just want the same function as the usb serial cable so once I've installed the module would I have to do any coding to get it to work or is it plug and play.

- as the khr-2 is 10.8v is there any place on the board that you can take 5v from or do I have to install a power converter.

cheers bren
finally got my robot work, so it's about time I cut the anbilcal cord.

After reading some of the robonova post, I recon a
Bluetooth Modem - BlueSMiRFfrom spark fun would do the trick, but before I buy it I would welcome any sugestions from fellow khr-2 owners that have done this. some points that would be nice to have an answer on are.

- for now I just want the same function as the usb serial cable so once I've installed the module would I have to do any coding to get it to work or is it plug and play.

- as the khr-2 is 10.8v is there any place on the board that you can take 5v from or do I have to install a power converter.

cheers bren
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Post by Robo1 » Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:39 pm

Post by Robo1
Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:39 pm

hello has any one had any luck in the wireless department.

I'm still working on a good power source so haven't had time (using mobile phone batteries going well). if anyones working on a solution would loike to hear.

cheers bren
hello has any one had any luck in the wireless department.

I'm still working on a good power source so haven't had time (using mobile phone batteries going well). if anyones working on a solution would loike to hear.

cheers bren
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Post by Meltdown » Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:09 am

Post by Meltdown
Thu Aug 31, 2006 2:09 am

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Post by Robo1 » Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:42 pm

Post by Robo1
Thu Aug 31, 2006 7:42 pm

cheers Meltdown

I've read your post before, i think i will buy it and see.

A question? your 7.5A regulator is it high enough rating for the robot I've been looking for one and can't fine any 12V ones higher then 7.5A rating

bren
cheers Meltdown

I've read your post before, i think i will buy it and see.

A question? your 7.5A regulator is it high enough rating for the robot I've been looking for one and can't fine any 12V ones higher then 7.5A rating

bren
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Post by Meltdown » Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:44 am

Post by Meltdown
Fri Sep 01, 2006 12:44 am

To my knowledge there are no bigger ones than 7.5amps.
Beyond that you have to use transformers.
But you can always use more of them in parallel to increase the amperage.
7.5amps seems to be enough to power my 22 d.o.f KHR-1.
I build 2 regulators into the soles each equipped with Lipos.
I use one at a time so no parallel for me.
When 1 Lipo is out i switch to the other one.
To my knowledge there are no bigger ones than 7.5amps.
Beyond that you have to use transformers.
But you can always use more of them in parallel to increase the amperage.
7.5amps seems to be enough to power my 22 d.o.f KHR-1.
I build 2 regulators into the soles each equipped with Lipos.
I use one at a time so no parallel for me.
When 1 Lipo is out i switch to the other one.
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KHR-2 Wireless Bluetooth?

Post by Bob » Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:43 pm

Post by Bob
Thu Sep 14, 2006 7:43 pm

I have just bought a KHR-2 and want to find out what anybody thinks is a workable wireless USB solution. The unit from Kondo seems pricy, but I have no comparison.

Has anybody got experience/recommndations for this?

Thanks,
I have just bought a KHR-2 and want to find out what anybody thinks is a workable wireless USB solution. The unit from Kondo seems pricy, but I have no comparison.

Has anybody got experience/recommndations for this?

Thanks,
Bob
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Post by Robo1 » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:14 pm

Post by Robo1
Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:14 pm

I've just brought here

[/url]

it should be here next week so I can tell you if it works in two weeks.

it has two ttl lines, so one upstream for a camera and the other to control the board. it also has 11 I/O so hopefully can get an LCD to work of those.

bren
I've just brought here

[/url]

it should be here next week so I can tell you if it works in two weeks.

it has two ttl lines, so one upstream for a camera and the other to control the board. it also has 11 I/O so hopefully can get an LCD to work of those.

bren
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Wireless LAN

Post by Bob » Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:21 pm

Post by Bob
Fri Sep 15, 2006 8:21 pm

I hadn't thought about using wi-fi instead of bluetooth. Does it implement a serial port for the HeartToHeart software to talk to?

Let me know how it goes, the price is certainly right.
I hadn't thought about using wi-fi instead of bluetooth. Does it implement a serial port for the HeartToHeart software to talk to?

Let me know how it goes, the price is certainly right.
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Post by Robo1 » Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:34 am

Post by Robo1
Sat Sep 16, 2006 10:34 am

the advantage I see is the big band width. If you want a camera then you need a faster connection then bluetooth. To answer you're question about com ports you can get a bit of software that gives your wifi connect a com port so should work with H2H.

one of the big bonous I see is that it's a mini server out of the box just give it power and you can make a direct connect from you PC. then you can use the onboard web server to change setting. you can even load you own software on it it and set up you own protocal.

bren
the advantage I see is the big band width. If you want a camera then you need a faster connection then bluetooth. To answer you're question about com ports you can get a bit of software that gives your wifi connect a com port so should work with H2H.

one of the big bonous I see is that it's a mini server out of the box just give it power and you can make a direct connect from you PC. then you can use the onboard web server to change setting. you can even load you own software on it it and set up you own protocal.

bren
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WiFi interface

Post by Bob » Fri Oct 27, 2006 2:43 am

Post by Bob
Fri Oct 27, 2006 2:43 am

So how did your WiFi connection work out for the KHR-2? I've been busy and still have not done anything...
So how did your WiFi connection work out for the KHR-2? I've been busy and still have not done anything...
Bob
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Post by Robo1 » Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:03 am

Post by Robo1
Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:03 am

Still haven't got it up and running. I broke the first one with to high a current so I'm waiting for a new one to arrive I will up date when I have it working and leave some comment.

bren
Still haven't got it up and running. I broke the first one with to high a current so I'm waiting for a new one to arrive I will up date when I have it working and leave some comment.

bren
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Blue Smirf

Post by Bob » Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:39 am

Post by Bob
Thu Dec 07, 2006 3:39 am

I broke down and bought the Blue Smirf. It turns out there is +5V available on the RCB-3 board. The connector just to the left of the serial connector is used by the radio (KHR-1) and it puts +5V on the middle pin (with the one closest to the edge of the board being GND).

That part worked great, but when I hooked the TX RX leads up nothing happened. The smirf seems to be working, responding to AT commands and loopback so I don't quite know what the problem is.

Do any of you hardware hackers know which pin is TX vs RX on the RCB-3 or what the signal levels are? The smirf provides the same signal levels as its supply voltage (+5 in this case). Is the RCB-3 expecting something different (like 10V, or inverted signals?). A scope on the end of the serial cable should answer these questions, but I don't have one.

I'm assuming the serial connector pins on the RCB-3 are (from the edge of the board) GND,TX,RX.
I broke down and bought the Blue Smirf. It turns out there is +5V available on the RCB-3 board. The connector just to the left of the serial connector is used by the radio (KHR-1) and it puts +5V on the middle pin (with the one closest to the edge of the board being GND).

That part worked great, but when I hooked the TX RX leads up nothing happened. The smirf seems to be working, responding to AT commands and loopback so I don't quite know what the problem is.

Do any of you hardware hackers know which pin is TX vs RX on the RCB-3 or what the signal levels are? The smirf provides the same signal levels as its supply voltage (+5 in this case). Is the RCB-3 expecting something different (like 10V, or inverted signals?). A scope on the end of the serial cable should answer these questions, but I don't have one.

I'm assuming the serial connector pins on the RCB-3 are (from the edge of the board) GND,TX,RX.
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12 postsPage 1 of 1
12 postsPage 1 of 1