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Hitec robotics including ROBONOVA humanoid, HSR-8498HB servos, MR C-3024 Controllers and RoboBasic
30 postsPage 2 of 21, 2
30 postsPage 2 of 21, 2

Post by hivemind » Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:45 am

Post by hivemind
Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:45 am

Regarding the flashing blue LED, try just commenting out the voltage-check routine in the overall template. If you have not created the voltage meter then it will always return thinking the battery is low and therefore you will have a tough time using the remote. It is worth a try.

-Hive
Regarding the flashing blue LED, try just commenting out the voltage-check routine in the overall template. If you have not created the voltage meter then it will always return thinking the battery is low and therefore you will have a tough time using the remote. It is worth a try.

-Hive
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Post by tinman1 » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:12 am

Post by tinman1
Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:12 am

If you have not created the voltage meter then it will always return thinking the battery is low and therefore you will have a tough time using the remote. It is worth a try

You have something there Hivemind, the remote does work irratically and that could be that problem. Thanks!
try just commenting out the voltage-check routine in the overall template

After commenting out this portion, then plug bot back into PC and over write the original download?
thanks, Tinman
If you have not created the voltage meter then it will always return thinking the battery is low and therefore you will have a tough time using the remote. It is worth a try

You have something there Hivemind, the remote does work irratically and that could be that problem. Thanks!
try just commenting out the voltage-check routine in the overall template

After commenting out this portion, then plug bot back into PC and over write the original download?
thanks, Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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Post by hivemind » Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:50 am

Post by hivemind
Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:50 am

Yep, just over write the original and you should be set (assuming you are working the the original as of right now). This might not be your issue, it could be a zero problem that is hard to notice -but this certainly will fix remote control issues none the less-so one problem down!
Yep, just over write the original and you should be set (assuming you are working the the original as of right now). This might not be your issue, it could be a zero problem that is hard to notice -but this certainly will fix remote control issues none the less-so one problem down!
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Post by tinman1 » Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:14 am

Post by tinman1
Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:14 am

Okay, now we are getting some where! I commented out the code pertaining to the voltage check routine and now the remocon works as it should. Thanks hivemind! :lol:
Now for problem number 2- Is it possible to reverse the leg servos!?!?!
I know how stupid this sounds, but when I press the walk forward button, he goes in reverse. Press the reverse button, he goes forward. All of these walking functions arer really poor too, he would fall if I wasn't supporting him. :? I was VERY careful to assemble as the instructions call out with special attention to the servo placement.
I guess the idiot proofing wasn't loaded in the software!
Tinman
Okay, now we are getting some where! I commented out the code pertaining to the voltage check routine and now the remocon works as it should. Thanks hivemind! :lol:
Now for problem number 2- Is it possible to reverse the leg servos!?!?!
I know how stupid this sounds, but when I press the walk forward button, he goes in reverse. Press the reverse button, he goes forward. All of these walking functions arer really poor too, he would fall if I wasn't supporting him. :? I was VERY careful to assemble as the instructions call out with special attention to the servo placement.
I guess the idiot proofing wasn't loaded in the software!
Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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Post by engineer » Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:11 am

Post by engineer
Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:11 am

welcome tinman; you've found thr right place for the answers to your build problems. You might want to run reset after you downloaded into RN-1 and had problems with servo movements, the low voltage circuit interupt changes the program. I had so many altered routines that I sent RN-1 out for service. When I got RN-1 back the service department said that was all it took to get RN-1 to run right.there is a voltage detector thread that shows how to build, plug in, and reset the voltage parameters to make the routine run correctly on this forum. I'm working on the gyro and accelerometer run codes now. Make sure that you have the servos plugged in correctly by opening the disc build manual. The pictures can be magnified untill you can see the proper orientation of the pieces. Good luck!
welcome tinman; you've found thr right place for the answers to your build problems. You might want to run reset after you downloaded into RN-1 and had problems with servo movements, the low voltage circuit interupt changes the program. I had so many altered routines that I sent RN-1 out for service. When I got RN-1 back the service department said that was all it took to get RN-1 to run right.there is a voltage detector thread that shows how to build, plug in, and reset the voltage parameters to make the routine run correctly on this forum. I'm working on the gyro and accelerometer run codes now. Make sure that you have the servos plugged in correctly by opening the disc build manual. The pictures can be magnified untill you can see the proper orientation of the pieces. Good luck!
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Post by hivemind » Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:26 pm

Post by hivemind
Tue Jan 30, 2007 12:26 pm

It sounds as if you have two (or more) servos switched around (orientation wise? or perhaps wrong leg entirely). This will account for the poor walking (as it is amazing he does anything resembling walking at all). There are several ways of getting around this:

You can take the RN back apart and fix the leg servos manuelly -which may be the best option.

Or you can go to the code and switch the direction of the servos in question, confirm these servos are in the right place by the zero setting, and then(as long as they are plugged into the correct place) they should work fine.

-Hope this helps some more. Glad to hear that the remocon problem is fixed.

-Hive
It sounds as if you have two (or more) servos switched around (orientation wise? or perhaps wrong leg entirely). This will account for the poor walking (as it is amazing he does anything resembling walking at all). There are several ways of getting around this:

You can take the RN back apart and fix the leg servos manuelly -which may be the best option.

Or you can go to the code and switch the direction of the servos in question, confirm these servos are in the right place by the zero setting, and then(as long as they are plugged into the correct place) they should work fine.

-Hope this helps some more. Glad to hear that the remocon problem is fixed.

-Hive
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Post by Widgits » Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:32 pm

Post by Widgits
Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:32 pm

Hey Tinman1
We found the wrap for the servo leads from Fry's electronics
I have one just a few miles down the road in Fremont Calif
We bought it for $3.69, but this was at the end of the year between christmas and new years and it was on sale
But if you go online to www.frys.com you can find it for $6.99 for 16ft
This should leave you extra
You can do a search for "expandable sleeving" or punch in the
part # 2281388 stock # 4109F This should get you what you need

I recommend getting the 1/4" stuff because the 1/8" was tighter around the wire but a real pain to get over the male plug
We tried the polyethylene spiral cut wire wrap but it seemed way too stiff
Unce the sleeve material is cut to length you can use a BIC lighter to seal the ends from fraying with the use of a pin punch as a rounded heat shield and form but be careful not to damage the wiring insulation

Or you could just buy a pack of the extra small zip ties and cinch them at the ends and trim off the tabs

Be aware that if you do this there is NO ROOM in Robo's back cover for the excess sleeving up by the plug and that this will not fit
So run it up just to the shoulder blade area and tuck the bare leads in from there

We are going to make stronger wire hold down straps from a coolwhip poly lid for the stock ones aren't very strong and will eventually have a blowout

Haven't had any problems yet on the screws loosening
But will heed info on these pages to possibly use nail polish under the head when installing
The little phillips panheads are a pain!!!
Wish someone would have used socket head cap screws instead
But these are a bit more expensive in small sizes
When something falls off we are going to screw it back down with something a little better
Change is inevitable, except from vending machines

Hope this helps
Bob and Ricky
Hey Tinman1
We found the wrap for the servo leads from Fry's electronics
I have one just a few miles down the road in Fremont Calif
We bought it for $3.69, but this was at the end of the year between christmas and new years and it was on sale
But if you go online to www.frys.com you can find it for $6.99 for 16ft
This should leave you extra
You can do a search for "expandable sleeving" or punch in the
part # 2281388 stock # 4109F This should get you what you need

I recommend getting the 1/4" stuff because the 1/8" was tighter around the wire but a real pain to get over the male plug
We tried the polyethylene spiral cut wire wrap but it seemed way too stiff
Unce the sleeve material is cut to length you can use a BIC lighter to seal the ends from fraying with the use of a pin punch as a rounded heat shield and form but be careful not to damage the wiring insulation

Or you could just buy a pack of the extra small zip ties and cinch them at the ends and trim off the tabs

Be aware that if you do this there is NO ROOM in Robo's back cover for the excess sleeving up by the plug and that this will not fit
So run it up just to the shoulder blade area and tuck the bare leads in from there

We are going to make stronger wire hold down straps from a coolwhip poly lid for the stock ones aren't very strong and will eventually have a blowout

Haven't had any problems yet on the screws loosening
But will heed info on these pages to possibly use nail polish under the head when installing
The little phillips panheads are a pain!!!
Wish someone would have used socket head cap screws instead
But these are a bit more expensive in small sizes
When something falls off we are going to screw it back down with something a little better
Change is inevitable, except from vending machines

Hope this helps
Bob and Ricky
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Post by Humanoido » Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:19 pm

Post by Humanoido
Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:19 pm

If the blue light is flashing and the battery is charged, RN needs the battery low circuit as described in the manual, last page. You could also disable the code, without the circuit, but highly recommend the circuit. The reason sometimes the remocon can work is because a signal gets through when the blue light is off momentarily.
Humanoido
If the blue light is flashing and the battery is charged, RN needs the battery low circuit as described in the manual, last page. You could also disable the code, without the circuit, but highly recommend the circuit. The reason sometimes the remocon can work is because a signal gets through when the blue light is off momentarily.
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Post by tinman1 » Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:58 am

Post by tinman1
Wed Jan 31, 2007 12:58 am

Thanks guys for all the response! :)
It sounds as if you have two (or more) servos switched around (orientation wise? or perhaps wrong leg entirely). This will account for the poor walking (as it is amazing he does anything resembling walking at all).

I agree, this seems like the most likely culprit. It only does this when moving forward. The "squat" function preforms as it should, in other words the vertical movements work. But when moving in the other planes, BAD STUFF happens.
You can take the RN back apart and fix the leg servos manually -which may be the best option.

Yep, that is what I plan on doing. I might as well fix it correctly. It would always bug the crap out of me knowing I had assembled it wrong. :oops:
Glad to hear that the remocon problem is fixed.

Me too, thanks for the direction!
Hey widget thanks for the info on the wrap. I have to go to Pheonix this Friday and they have a Fry's there, so since it looks like I'm going to be doing some backtracking and disassembling a portion of the robot it would be a good time to wrap those leads. I think I'll buy both sizes and do a little experimenting.
If the blue light is flashing and the battery is charged, RN needs the battery low circuit as described in the manual, last page. You could also disable the code, without the circuit, but highly recommend the circuit.

Thanks Humanoido, I went ahead and commented out the code temporarily. While at Fry's I'll get the components needed to make the circuit.
Thanks again guys.
Tinman
Thanks guys for all the response! :)
It sounds as if you have two (or more) servos switched around (orientation wise? or perhaps wrong leg entirely). This will account for the poor walking (as it is amazing he does anything resembling walking at all).

I agree, this seems like the most likely culprit. It only does this when moving forward. The "squat" function preforms as it should, in other words the vertical movements work. But when moving in the other planes, BAD STUFF happens.
You can take the RN back apart and fix the leg servos manually -which may be the best option.

Yep, that is what I plan on doing. I might as well fix it correctly. It would always bug the crap out of me knowing I had assembled it wrong. :oops:
Glad to hear that the remocon problem is fixed.

Me too, thanks for the direction!
Hey widget thanks for the info on the wrap. I have to go to Pheonix this Friday and they have a Fry's there, so since it looks like I'm going to be doing some backtracking and disassembling a portion of the robot it would be a good time to wrap those leads. I think I'll buy both sizes and do a little experimenting.
If the blue light is flashing and the battery is charged, RN needs the battery low circuit as described in the manual, last page. You could also disable the code, without the circuit, but highly recommend the circuit.

Thanks Humanoido, I went ahead and commented out the code temporarily. While at Fry's I'll get the components needed to make the circuit.
Thanks again guys.
Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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Post by tinman1 » Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:11 am

Post by tinman1
Wed Jan 31, 2007 1:11 am

Oops! Sorry engineer, I didn't see your post.
You might want to run reset after you downloaded into RN-1 and had problems with servo movements, the low voltage circuit interupt changes the program. I had so many altered routines that I sent RN-1 out for service. When I got RN-1 back the service department said that was all it took to get RN-1 to run right

I think I will try this first before taking it back apart. Funny, I know I followed the instructions, I mean for gawds sake I built aircraft for a living! :lol: Besides I went back over the entire build instructions until midnight and it looks right. (I better check one more time though) :lol:
At first I thought I had connected the leads to the board incorrectly, so I triple checked them, alls good.
I'll let you guys know where I @#&*%! up.
Thanks, Tinman
Oops! Sorry engineer, I didn't see your post.
You might want to run reset after you downloaded into RN-1 and had problems with servo movements, the low voltage circuit interupt changes the program. I had so many altered routines that I sent RN-1 out for service. When I got RN-1 back the service department said that was all it took to get RN-1 to run right

I think I will try this first before taking it back apart. Funny, I know I followed the instructions, I mean for gawds sake I built aircraft for a living! :lol: Besides I went back over the entire build instructions until midnight and it looks right. (I better check one more time though) :lol:
At first I thought I had connected the leads to the board incorrectly, so I triple checked them, alls good.
I'll let you guys know where I @#&*%! up.
Thanks, Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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RN-!

Post by engineer » Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:01 am

Post by engineer
Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:01 am

hey tinman! following the instructions is probably what got you in the fix your in,check out the build blog in the forum, then pull up the instruction manual on the cd. There are a few confused directions in the legs and arms.
hey tinman! following the instructions is probably what got you in the fix your in,check out the build blog in the forum, then pull up the instruction manual on the cd. There are a few confused directions in the legs and arms.
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Post by tinman1 » Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:05 am

Post by tinman1
Wed Jan 31, 2007 3:05 am

Heh, heh. You are probably right! :lol:
I have a feeling some of the manual has some errors. I checked the FAQ section here at RS and saw there were some descrepancies.
Thanks, Tinman
Heh, heh. You are probably right! :lol:
I have a feeling some of the manual has some errors. I checked the FAQ section here at RS and saw there were some descrepancies.
Thanks, Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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Post by Humanoido » Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:32 pm

Post by Humanoido
Wed Jan 31, 2007 2:32 pm

You might want to try bringing up the zero position mode and seeing exactly how these servos move and if they correspond to the indicated graphic positions. In my build, I switched the hip servos back and forth a few times to test their positions and finally get it right.
Humanoido
You might want to try bringing up the zero position mode and seeing exactly how these servos move and if they correspond to the indicated graphic positions. In my build, I switched the hip servos back and forth a few times to test their positions and finally get it right.
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Post by Widgits » Wed Jan 31, 2007 6:24 pm

Post by Widgits
Wed Jan 31, 2007 6:24 pm

Hey Tinman1
While your at Fry's check to see if they have the small male plug servo connectors in a kit
You could take just the collector LED that is normally plugged into AD7
to show them what you need
Typically this is referred to as a Futaba J plug or Universal S type
And buy extras your going to want them for the extra goodies you install later Gyro's, RC controllers etc
This would save you money later on
I found that some hobby shops carry them
But they are far and few
Later
Widgits
Hey Tinman1
While your at Fry's check to see if they have the small male plug servo connectors in a kit
You could take just the collector LED that is normally plugged into AD7
to show them what you need
Typically this is referred to as a Futaba J plug or Universal S type
And buy extras your going to want them for the extra goodies you install later Gyro's, RC controllers etc
This would save you money later on
I found that some hobby shops carry them
But they are far and few
Later
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Post by tinman1 » Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:36 am

Post by tinman1
Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:36 am

Well......(sheepish grin)
I went back through the entire build instructions and found I had two servos reversed and I duplicated the servo horn centers for both legs! :oops:
I have to admit I made the mistakes, but these are some very unorthodox instructions. The logic of the build sequence is a little perplexing.
I went to the Fry's and got the mesh wire shrouds, I'm finishing this up now. they also had the universal S type male plugs. Time to get busy!
Thanks again for all the advice guys.
Tinman
Well......(sheepish grin)
I went back through the entire build instructions and found I had two servos reversed and I duplicated the servo horn centers for both legs! :oops:
I have to admit I made the mistakes, but these are some very unorthodox instructions. The logic of the build sequence is a little perplexing.
I went to the Fry's and got the mesh wire shrouds, I'm finishing this up now. they also had the universal S type male plugs. Time to get busy!
Thanks again for all the advice guys.
Tinman
Tell me again. What happens when these 2 wires touch?
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30 postsPage 2 of 21, 2
30 postsPage 2 of 21, 2