Ok This newbie is needing help with gyros and RC controller

[Widgits]

The wife and I got the kid a RN-1 for christmas
Before I spent the money I found this site
Thought it might be a good investment for a kid who eats lego units for breakfast
Ricky put it together without one hitch
Mostly by searching thru past postings on this page
So now he wants to start adding to it
When I bought this at the same time I purchased some E-Flight G90 Gyros
I waited until he figured out that some Gyros would help the stability himself, then I pulled em out
The G90's seem to meet the requirements for DC voltage and can be changed to a standard rate mode instead of head hold for Helicopter
tail rotor control, and it also has the ability to handle either analog or digital input and output with adjustable gain pots and reversal switching
So these should work, but they are a bit expensive
At the same time we wanted to install a Futaba RC receiver
Not quite sure this will fit yet, kinda big
But our question is with the pinouts
we read the posts on Hitec's webpage about installing this Rc unit
and noticed that it uses some of the same pin sets as the gyro's
But the manual say's that this controller can handle up to 4 sets of gyro's
and the second set could be placed on AD2-AD6 and AD3-AD7
We also found a page where Matt shows the RCX inputs at AD0 and AD1
But Hitecs page shows 4 inputs from the RCX into AD0-AD1-AD2-AD3
So we are curious if there is anyway to install both these sysytems
And is it true that all the pins across the top could possibly be used for the power inputs for the gyro's
Just trying to figure this out
Any help would be appreciated
And thanks again Matt for the help before christmas
Bob and Ricky May

[Widgits]

Thanks Pev
Little Ricky's all over it
Apparently the ADC (Analog to Digital conversion) ports are dual function and allow you to use them as inputs or outputs, but this must be specified in the program as to the channel using which connection as an input
This means that you can hook up a RC receiver and dual gyros
But you would have to disconnect the low voltage (AD6) and IR LED (AD7)
plug sets
Not sure this is a good thing on the low voltage

Ricky tells me he's going to try the extra signal wire on the E-Flight gyro's
He informs me that this would give him the ability to adjust the gyro's gain from the RC transmitter realtime
But he has to find a receiver with 8 channels that can fit inside his RN1's chest cavity, sounds cool, hope he's right, smart kid
He tells me the batteries weigh to much and he want's to put them in the feet to lower the center of gravity
Didn't Matt do this? Wonder how it worked out, great minds think alike

Will keep you informed
Thanks Pev
Later
Bob and Ricky

[Pev]

Glad its all coming together. I am in the process of setting up a web site and will ensure I put something about the RC stuff on it this week. Its early days so not a lot on there at the moment (address is below my signature).

Finding a small reciever is always difficult - I use a park flyer one from Futuba called a R114F but its only 4 channel.

With regard to the batteries in the feet I haven't tried it but I did see a post from Matt about being careful not to add to much load to the leg servos.

Matt said:
Yeah, I noticed how much strain is put on the hip servos when Rook's Pawn (v1) lifted his leg. His movements had to be dramatically slowed down or he'd loose his balance on one leg. The extra weight is nice when he was standing in place, but kinda' defeates the purpose of having a walking bi-ped robot. Wink

I'm looking for that happy medium between stability and agility.

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The thread was this one:

http://robosavvy.com/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=851&start=45

Check out page 3 and 4 - just a couple of posts but worth checking out (nice 'bot the guys building too).

Anyway good luck and hope it all works for you.