Here is what I got....now what

[NVR2FST]

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj27 ... C01586.jpg http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj27 ... C01589.jpg I would like to connect my DX7 2.4 ghz Radio to my Robonova. I have a AR6000 Receiver. What are the benefits and limitations of using this setup? Can I get a continuous movement on the Robonova? Any help on setting it up? Can I use the extra channels for direct use from radio to Robonova "accessories"? Such as turning his head by connecting that servo directly to the receiver while having other channels operating Robonova. How about codes, are there any setup for this? Thanks a bunch. I am ready to start this in the morning.

[Pev]

Hi,

Not sure if this will help but there are details and code extracts for a basic RC setup in this thread, oh and it includes continuous walking forwards:

http://robosavvy.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc

Pev

[NVR2FST]

Thanks Pev. I believe I will need something more indepth. I will continue my search. I thought I came across a more step by step. Coding will be my biggest problem. I need to learn more about adding these type things into my codes that I make with catch and play. I dont understand the coding too well. I understand the general concept but that is as far as it goes. I am more into the "physical" adaptations. I uderstand my radios because I use them with my helis but linking them by code is beyond me at this point.

[Pev]

If you can do the physical mods and understand the use of the Radio I am sure the coding bit will come really easy. Let me check what I have for code from when I was using my 4 channel radio and see what I can do. I am pretty sure I can put a step by step guide together for you and can then add it to my website too (its about time I updated it lol)

Pev

[NVR2FST]

Thanks a whole lot. Dont rush on my account. I could have sworn I saw a step by step somewhere when I first got my Robonova. I should have saved the link. I will learn this coding. I have to. I just try to take too much in at one time. I get something new and I want to do it all.......all at one time. Can be overwhelming at times. Sometimes I think my brain is full and I cant take any more in. I guess its time for a format

[visuvius]

If you can do the physical mods and understand the use of the Radio I am sure the coding bit will come really easy. Let me check what I have for code from when I was using my 4 channel radio and see what I can do. I am pretty sure I can put a step by step guide together for you and can then add it to my website too (its about time I updated it lol)

Pev

I'd just like to chime in and say that this would be really useful and appreciated!

[Pev]

Well Gents,

Here is a link to the first draft of the RC Interacing piece on my website. Please feel free to ask questions and let me know if its useful.

http://www.bipedrobots.co.uk/rnindex.aspx?id=302

Pev

[NVR2FST]

Holy cow pev! You been busy. What a fast turnaround. This is very much appreciated ! I will start figuring on where to mount my receiver and get the hardware part finished. I havent read it in detail yet but even with this all setup I can still use the remocon by just using the standard code, correct? Thanks again. Im not sure how I can help you but if you think of something let me know.

[Pev]

My Pleasure. And I'll dig out the full code I used to use with my 4 channel - that worked with the IR at the same time but yes - just reload the standard code and you can use the IR.

[NVR2FST]

I made up my 4 connectors. I made all of them with all three wires. Will that create a problem with this controller board ? I read that you only had all three on one for power. I also am not using a gyro. Will that change anything with the connections and code? I have some extra gyros from my helis. I have one relatively inexpensive ALIGN RCE-500x that I am not using on any of my helis. I am guessing that the sensitivity and quality wouldnt need to be as high for the Robot as opposed to what a heli tail rotor would need. My others are of a much higher quality but I dont want to cannibalize any of my working birds. I understand you dont know of all products but if you have any ideas it would help. If this gyro would be good I will find somewhere to install it. I am running out of room. I dont want anything mounted unhidden. I found that my receiver fits inside the back of his controller cover. I mounted it with sticky tape to the inside of the cover itself. Pics later

[Pev]

Hi,

I used a PG-03 gyro - I think that was it - I really must just get out of work earlier and dig my RN-1 out lol. I mounted it on the left shoulder with a bit of foam tape. Not ideal but worked ok. The gyro takes up 2 AD ports. They are sort of match pairs so one gyro would take port AD0 and AD4, hence the connections in my code for the RC - AD1-3 and AD5.

Some of the ppl on here in the early days where using Heli gyros, some of the more advanced ones caused problems, I think they had some sort of lock mechanisum that was the issue. A basic constant rate gyro should be ok. The wiki has a link to a great page on gyros (well I hope it still does lol).

As for the connectors it shouldn't make any difference. I am not a big RC person such as yourself so on my receiver it only had one connector marked as power. Thats why I ensured only the one was connected. Not sure what would happen if they all were, probably nothing but not sure.

Pev

[Tim]

Pev

looking forward to checking out your RC control doc . .. thanks for putting that up. I've got a DX6 sitting around begging for use.

Guys, as for gyro location, I've just carefully stuffed the roll gyro into the head and the pitch gyro into the front left chest cavity (using the foam mounting pad as well as some velcro in the case of the head gyro). You have to take the gyro case off (as it says in the PG-03 manual, this is ok), and I used black tape to cover them up since I didn't have any nice clear heatshrink like you see on the commercial RN-1 add-ons.

You need to leave carefully cut out holes in the tape before you put it on, if you put it on then cut it, you run the risk of slicing into the board I guess.. or maybe that is me being paranoid.

You have to leave the front RN-1 cover off to get at the setup and gain screws for the pitch, and the back of the head off to get at the roll gyro, but it seems happy enough.

I'm a little worried about temperature stability, but not as worried as I was keen to hide them inside.

Also, I only made one connection (the signal wire) to the return side of each gyro because the wiring is fairly tight through the holes. I would post some pictures but my camera phone is pretty naff and my digital camera is still at the repair shop.

Anyway, horses for courses....

Cheers
Tim

[Pev]

Hi Tim,

Sounds like a good idea on the mounting of the gyros. I currently only use one for the forwards/backwards correction, have never had a lateral issue although I should really try it as I am sure it would be of benefit.

I mounted mine on the shoulder to get to the setup screws but noew I am thinking that maybe I should remount it and sort out a better solution for the adjustment.

Pev