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New RN-1 with a problem

Hitec robotics including ROBONOVA humanoid, HSR-8498HB servos, MR C-3024 Controllers and RoboBasic
6 postsPage 1 of 1
6 postsPage 1 of 1

New RN-1 with a problem

Post by ysamu » Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:55 am

Post by ysamu
Fri Apr 18, 2008 7:55 am

Hello all,
I just finished building my RN and had a lot of fun and excitement doing so!
My pack is fully charged but when I switch the controller on, well, nothing happens, no communication on the com port(all of them), no light on the led, no servo movement or force, nothing.
I think I have used my skills and resources, do you know what it could be or which other test I could do? If the controller is dead, what should I do?
Thank you for helping me, that for sure will remove a lot of frustration!!
Hello all,
I just finished building my RN and had a lot of fun and excitement doing so!
My pack is fully charged but when I switch the controller on, well, nothing happens, no communication on the com port(all of them), no light on the led, no servo movement or force, nothing.
I think I have used my skills and resources, do you know what it could be or which other test I could do? If the controller is dead, what should I do?
Thank you for helping me, that for sure will remove a lot of frustration!!
ysamu
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Post by lampcov » Fri Apr 18, 2008 1:56 pm

Post by lampcov
Fri Apr 18, 2008 1:56 pm

Ysamu,

I'm not an RN1 owner and don't know the lay out of the controller, but at a high level I'd start here, assuming you haven't done this already..

Do you have a Digital Multi Meter/Volt meter? If so, you should 1st check that there is actually voltage coming from the battery pack. Just because it shows charged, doesn't mean it actually is. From there I would just verify power is flowing from the battery to the input side power switch, then check the output side turning the switch on and off.

I assume from the switch power heads to a regulator/transistor, check that. Beyond that point you're going to be hard pressed to see where the problem is if power is flowing properly.

Worst case scenario would be a bad controller, which given HiTec's quality control would be a surprise. If you weren't properly grounded or wearing a static discharge strap while building the bot, it is possible that you fried it. It only takes about 5k Volts to kill an ATMega, and your body easily can discharge 15kv.

Sorry I can't offer more help, but I'm sure Matt or Gort will chime in soon! They're your real source of info!

Marc
Ysamu,

I'm not an RN1 owner and don't know the lay out of the controller, but at a high level I'd start here, assuming you haven't done this already..

Do you have a Digital Multi Meter/Volt meter? If so, you should 1st check that there is actually voltage coming from the battery pack. Just because it shows charged, doesn't mean it actually is. From there I would just verify power is flowing from the battery to the input side power switch, then check the output side turning the switch on and off.

I assume from the switch power heads to a regulator/transistor, check that. Beyond that point you're going to be hard pressed to see where the problem is if power is flowing properly.

Worst case scenario would be a bad controller, which given HiTec's quality control would be a surprise. If you weren't properly grounded or wearing a static discharge strap while building the bot, it is possible that you fried it. It only takes about 5k Volts to kill an ATMega, and your body easily can discharge 15kv.

Sorry I can't offer more help, but I'm sure Matt or Gort will chime in soon! They're your real source of info!

Marc
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Post by i-Bot » Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:43 pm

Post by i-Bot
Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:43 pm

The 3 pin connectors down the sides of the controller have battery power on them. So the middle pin of the three is at battery voltage (6V). the pins to the outside of the board of the three are at 0V. If the battery and switch are OK you should measure 6v between these pins. The 3 pin connectors at the top of the board have regulated 5V on the middle pin, and 0V on the outer pin. This same 5V is used for the processor supply. 5V here should indicate the regulator is OK.

It is possible for the board to be OK, but have no software downloaded, so no sound, motors or LED.

To check communication with the board use the controller -> Controller Information from Robobasic. make sure your serial COM port works OK, and you have the right controller type configured. Make sure the cable is plugged in properly to the controller.

If the controller is faulty. Hitec are usually very good at fast replacement and support.
The 3 pin connectors down the sides of the controller have battery power on them. So the middle pin of the three is at battery voltage (6V). the pins to the outside of the board of the three are at 0V. If the battery and switch are OK you should measure 6v between these pins. The 3 pin connectors at the top of the board have regulated 5V on the middle pin, and 0V on the outer pin. This same 5V is used for the processor supply. 5V here should indicate the regulator is OK.

It is possible for the board to be OK, but have no software downloaded, so no sound, motors or LED.

To check communication with the board use the controller -> Controller Information from Robobasic. make sure your serial COM port works OK, and you have the right controller type configured. Make sure the cable is plugged in properly to the controller.

If the controller is faulty. Hitec are usually very good at fast replacement and support.
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Post by i-Bot » Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:43 pm

Post by i-Bot
Fri Apr 18, 2008 3:43 pm

The 3 pin connectors down the sides of the controller have battery power on them. So the middle pin of the three is at battery voltage (6V). the pins to the outside of the board of the three are at 0V. If the battery and switch are OK you should measure 6v between these pins. The 3 pin connectors at the top of the board have regulated 5V on the middle pin, and 0V on the outer pin. This same 5V is used for the processor supply. 5V here should indicate the regulator is OK.

It is possible for the board to be OK, but have no software downloaded, so no sound, motors or LED.

To check communication with the board use the controller -> Controller Information from Robobasic. make sure your serial COM port works OK, and you have the right controller type configured. Make sure the cable is plugged in properly to the controller.

If the controller is faulty. Hitec are usually very good at fast replacement and support.
The 3 pin connectors down the sides of the controller have battery power on them. So the middle pin of the three is at battery voltage (6V). the pins to the outside of the board of the three are at 0V. If the battery and switch are OK you should measure 6v between these pins. The 3 pin connectors at the top of the board have regulated 5V on the middle pin, and 0V on the outer pin. This same 5V is used for the processor supply. 5V here should indicate the regulator is OK.

It is possible for the board to be OK, but have no software downloaded, so no sound, motors or LED.

To check communication with the board use the controller -> Controller Information from Robobasic. make sure your serial COM port works OK, and you have the right controller type configured. Make sure the cable is plugged in properly to the controller.

If the controller is faulty. Hitec are usually very good at fast replacement and support.
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Post by DirtyRoboto » Sat Apr 19, 2008 5:48 am

Post by DirtyRoboto
Sat Apr 19, 2008 5:48 am

Sounds like either a power issue or a bad controller if you have built it correctly.
Inspect the area where the power cells connect to the board after confriming that the cells are good.
It may also be that you have a short somewhere that is knocking the board out each time you power up, so give all of your connections a good inspection to make sure everything is as it should be.
Sounds like either a power issue or a bad controller if you have built it correctly.
Inspect the area where the power cells connect to the board after confriming that the cells are good.
It may also be that you have a short somewhere that is knocking the board out each time you power up, so give all of your connections a good inspection to make sure everything is as it should be.
In servo's we trust!
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Post by Sonic » Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:56 pm

Post by Sonic
Sat Apr 19, 2008 8:56 pm

Post subject: HE'S DEAD (HELP PLZ)
have a look at this may help
http://robosavvy.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... light=dead
Post subject: HE'S DEAD (HELP PLZ)
have a look at this may help
http://robosavvy.com/forum/viewtopic.ph ... light=dead
Always Remember He's alive
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6 postsPage 1 of 1
6 postsPage 1 of 1