changing the code in the MR-C3024

[i-Bot]

Roboflash should work OK now, so we still have a problem.

I noticed the fuse for BOOTRST is not programmed. Please try it with this programmed.

Which serial interface are you using ? Is it the transistor circuit or the RS232 IC ? The download works at a higher speed, so there may be problems with the interface still.

[stuuk]

Hi I-Bot

I follwed Ayu's instructions in Home built/Home built MR-C3024 controller
This shows to set fuses BootSZ1 and BootSZ0 only not BootRST

I'll try BootRST as well

My RS232 circuit is this



I'm using 2x 2n3704 gen purpose npn's and a 1n4001 diode.

Should this be ok?

Thanks again

Stu

[ayu]

Hi stu,

Let's try again,first erase all the program in chip ATmega128,also erase the fuse bit ,used ponyprog,please.

(unchecked the BOOTSZ1,BOOTSZ0 and write again,then press READ ,you can watch the BOOTSZ1,BOOTSZ0 unchecked(=1).)

Then download the cboot.hex again,and write the fuse bit(checked BOOTSZ1,BOOTSZ0 =0).

Your eeprom connection is right,but the AT4C512B serial eeprom IC , I donnt know whether it like ATMEL 24C512 ? this is the different from us.

The roboflash must change another file folder again,this is very important point to succeed in the test.

Connect the RS232 circuit to your ATmega128,because the Roboflash is file transfer by RS232 to download the payload.bin.
your ponyprog and parallel connection(mean programmer circuit) must off connection to the ATmega128.

Run the foboflash,it will talk to you must power off the ATmega128,you must to do that,then power on,you will watch the roboflash to file transfer the payload.bin.

That's all I try.

[stuuk]

Hi I-Bot

I set the fuse bits for Bootsz1, bootsz0 and bootrst.
For good measure I re-flashed with your I2ccboot.hex combined file but still got the same results.

I took another look at the rs232 circuit and couldn't really figure out the purpose of the diode so I removed it.

After removing the diode Hey Presto - it worked!

I can now download basic programs to the controller yipee!

Minor concern - Roboflash still can't communicate with the controller keeps saying Robonova not responding.

As i seem to have a working controller now I may leave as is but would it now be worth trying reloading with cboot.hex and then trying to load payload.bin with roboflash?

Thanks

Stuart

[stuuk]

Hi Ayu

Thanks for the response

I seem to have it working now by removing the diode in the rs232 circuit
After I removed the diode I could download robobasic programs.
(But strangely roboflash still doesnt work)

At the moment I have it flashed with I-bot's combined code and bootloader so have a fully working controller.

I need to add all the i/o pins and other bits and pieces yet and im putting in a 6 pin header for the isp programmer (at the moment the two boards are soldered together with link wires)

Now i know it does work i'll solder everything else to the board and try the cboot.hex / roboflash later

Thanks to all again

Stu

[stuuk]

hi Ayu

You were correct.

I extracted Roboflash to a different folder and it successfully downloaded payload to the controller first time.

I don't understand why that can be but it worked.

Thanks

Stuart

[ayu]

Hi Stuart,
Congratulations on your test.

It's experience what all I try

Why that? I guess the Roboflash maybe memory the file?

If you want to do another MR-C3024,should be again.

Good luck your home built robot.

Thanks I-Bot.

ayu

[badlands]

Hey Stu, got any pictures of your project?

Its fascinating to read about but would love to see it too.

[stuuk]

Hi Badlands

Not quite finished the board yet, have the 40 i/o wires to solder from the chip to all the inner pins (yep i've left the hardest job till last) and a few other bits and bobs.
Also need to find right angled pcb mounted JST connector for the battery which is proving difficult.

Aside from flashing the Atmega all i've really done to test it is write a few sound routines in robobasic to test the buzzer and ir remote and so far it all works.

I've been building the board stage by stage and testing in between as I didn't want to solder all the i/o only to find it didn't work

Mine isn't as compact as Ayu's board but to get an idea what it looks like check out his board about half way down page 12 on this thread or his seperate thread on homebuilt.

To be honest i'm really chuffed as I haven't done any circuit building for over 10 years or so and I can see this board having a lot more uses than just building a clone robonova humanoid.

I'll post some pics when it's finished.

Once you get started its not that difficult if you want to have a go yourself. All the components needed came to less than £40 and that includes the parts to make an ISP dongle.
(Kanda for the dev mounted atmega128 and farnell for everything else)

Now that i've (almost) done one i quite fancy making another more compact version on proper pcb.

Anyway back to soldering all those i/o wires lol

Also would like to say a very big thanks to Ayu and I-Bot who have both been really great and more than helpfull.

Thanks

Stu

[badlands]

Very interesting Stu, it looks like you have a working home built MR-C3024 on your hands!

I didnt know you could get the dev mounted atmega128, i always wondered how you soldered up the micro !

A couple of years ago i had a go at making PCB's using CAD software & Press-n-Peel Blue Transfer Film. I managed to perfect double sided PCB's with VERY fine tracks.

I might get all my old bits out & give this a go.

I have a RN1 & dont want to screw up the MR-C3024 but im very keen
to throw £40 at making a home built MR-C3024 to play with.

Farnel list alot of ATMEGA128's

http://uk.farnell.com/9171118/semicondu ... ga128-16au

Is that the one to grab?

Cheers for the info.

[stuuk]

hi Badlands

Yes thats the one if you want to mount it directly to the board
There seems to be a couple of different versions a 5v only and a version that will take 3v to 5v.

If you want it dev mounted for around £4 more try this

http://www.kanda.com/products/Kanda/KANMEGDEV5.html

Dev mounted isn't a bad way to go even with a pcb as you can hide quite a few of the other components under the Atmega128 (see ayu's)

Hey if you manage to design a good pcb and fancy making more than one i'd have one

If you need any advice at all don't hesitate to ask but it isn't too difficult once you get started.

Cheers

Stu

[stuuk]

Hi Guys

Quick update Got all my i/o pins soldered and ir receiver and have connected servos and all is working.

One strange thing though

Robobasic works in every way, controller information, direct control, i can download robobasic programs and everything works consistently, no disconnects or anything.

When i launch roboscript though and try and get the controller info it always times out, however, i can use the slider bars in roboscript and insert moves and the controller responds to the moves when run.

Some of the other functions seem to work sometimes and at other times dont.

I dont think this is my controller as robobasic is rock solid.

Any thoughts?

On a side note, ive only just started using roboscript to test the controller.
How do you actually type script in the text area?
It will insert moves from the sliders, speed and delay etc from the click boxes but I cant type in anything as it just ignores the keyboard

Thanks

Stu

[i-Bot]

Do these functions work OK on the genuine C3024 ?

[stuuk]

With my genuine RN it shows controller info in roboscript althogh that is on a different pc, i'll try it on the same pc and see if it makes any difference.

Is anyone actually using roboscript?
I still cant get it to accept text from the keyboard but there must be a way of doing it as there are example scripts

Thanks

Stu

[stuuk]

Hey guys

I'm struggling to understand the led0 / led1 circuit in the top left corner of the schematic.

According to the board layout there should be two led's directly above the eeprom with two sm 10k resistors.

on my original board there doesnt seem to be any led's on the board but
I can see the two sm resistors.

Also if im reading the diagram correctly the head led is driven off LED1 which is connected in paralel to d5 but what is the purpose of d4 driven from LED0 ?

Thanks