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3.3V operation

Hitec robotics including ROBONOVA humanoid, HSR-8498HB servos, MR C-3024 Controllers and RoboBasic
4 postsPage 1 of 1
4 postsPage 1 of 1

3.3V operation

Post by Bullit » Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:24 pm

Post by Bullit
Sat Jun 17, 2006 3:24 pm

I've changed my MR-C3024 to 3.3V so that I could use a 3.3V blue giga bluetooth WT-11 module and a 3.3V 2 axis accelerometer from sparkfun. The only down side to this is that the head LED gets dimmer and the IR remote no longer works. I found a way around the IR remote problem though. I found a direct replacement for the IR sensor. I found the sensor at digikey.com 425-2039-ND. Keep the pinout the same and use the same resistor and capacitor and solder in the new part and replace the heat shrink and whala works like new. For the 3.3V regulator I purchased 827-AME8800AEFT from mouser.com. Soldering the regulator is for those who feel confident doing so. I do this stuff all the time so no big deal for me. For others if your not skilled doing this find someone with experience to do it for you. The IR sensor probably anyone can do.
For those of you who may be wondering if the GWS PG-03 gyro's still work at 3.3V, yes they do. For the head LED I've now changed mine to be two 3 color LED's and I control them from the PWM ports. I use different colors for the eyes to indicate different modes for the IR remote. I use one remote button to switch colors / mode and then the mode switches functions for some buttons to get addition functions from the remote.
I'll post pictures if anyone is interested.

Next I'm working on writting some java code for my cell phone to control my RN1 with my bluetooth moto Razr v3 :)
I've changed my MR-C3024 to 3.3V so that I could use a 3.3V blue giga bluetooth WT-11 module and a 3.3V 2 axis accelerometer from sparkfun. The only down side to this is that the head LED gets dimmer and the IR remote no longer works. I found a way around the IR remote problem though. I found a direct replacement for the IR sensor. I found the sensor at digikey.com 425-2039-ND. Keep the pinout the same and use the same resistor and capacitor and solder in the new part and replace the heat shrink and whala works like new. For the 3.3V regulator I purchased 827-AME8800AEFT from mouser.com. Soldering the regulator is for those who feel confident doing so. I do this stuff all the time so no big deal for me. For others if your not skilled doing this find someone with experience to do it for you. The IR sensor probably anyone can do.
For those of you who may be wondering if the GWS PG-03 gyro's still work at 3.3V, yes they do. For the head LED I've now changed mine to be two 3 color LED's and I control them from the PWM ports. I use different colors for the eyes to indicate different modes for the IR remote. I use one remote button to switch colors / mode and then the mode switches functions for some buttons to get addition functions from the remote.
I'll post pictures if anyone is interested.

Next I'm working on writting some java code for my cell phone to control my RN1 with my bluetooth moto Razr v3 :)
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Re: 3.3V operation

Post by Pev » Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:56 pm

Post by Pev
Sat Jun 17, 2006 6:56 pm

Bullit wrote:Next I'm working on writting some java code for my cell phone to control my RN1 with my bluetooth moto Razr v3 :)


Cool idea. I am currently working on an IPAQ/Pocket PC program to control my RN1 using .net and a BlueSmirf module. Have first working prototype done so would be interested in how you progress with your phone implementation.
Bullit wrote:Next I'm working on writting some java code for my cell phone to control my RN1 with my bluetooth moto Razr v3 :)


Cool idea. I am currently working on an IPAQ/Pocket PC program to control my RN1 using .net and a BlueSmirf module. Have first working prototype done so would be interested in how you progress with your phone implementation.
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Post by subpilot » Mon Jun 19, 2006 4:26 pm

Post by subpilot
Mon Jun 19, 2006 4:26 pm

Bullit, great info on the IR and regulator. I had trouble finding a regulator in the same SOT-89 package and had to kludge mine in upside down.
There were a couple of Robo-ones at the Robogames with cell phone control. Seems like it would be a pain given the small (and limited number of) buttons on a phone. It's cool as a novelty thing but not very practical IMHO. The Pocket PC seems like a better solution since you could have more functions on the screen.
Bullit, great info on the IR and regulator. I had trouble finding a regulator in the same SOT-89 package and had to kludge mine in upside down.
There were a couple of Robo-ones at the Robogames with cell phone control. Seems like it would be a pain given the small (and limited number of) buttons on a phone. It's cool as a novelty thing but not very practical IMHO. The Pocket PC seems like a better solution since you could have more functions on the screen.
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Post by limor » Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:09 pm

Post by limor
Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:09 pm

Bullit,
can you please post some pictures showing what you did to get your RN1 to work at 3.3V and the other hacks? - thanks
Bullit,
can you please post some pictures showing what you did to get your RN1 to work at 3.3V and the other hacks? - thanks
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