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Easy to install 6v regulator

Hitec robotics including ROBONOVA humanoid, HSR-8498HB servos, MR C-3024 Controllers and RoboBasic
16 postsPage 1 of 21, 2
16 postsPage 1 of 21, 2

Easy to install 6v regulator

Post by Zembot » Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:16 am

Post by Zembot
Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:16 am

Hey all,
It all started when I realized I have many 7.4v LiPos from my micro-heli ventures. Decided to put them to use in the RN-1.

So last week I found the Novak 5460 6v regulator for 20 bucks (retail). The output is rated for 6v@3 amp with 8.4v input. Not sure if it’d be enough to run chainsaws or saw blades, but it’s been working great in my RN-1 with two gyros. Everything runs as cool as a cucumber.


The Novak 5460 included all the wires attached with a power switch.
Image


I removed all pre-installed wires and soldered my own.
Image


Done. Foam mounted the regulator on the controller board. The blue LED on the regulator has a cool glowing effect when the back shell is installed.
Image


One definite plus is the decrease in weight from LiPos vrs. the stock NiMH pack. More nimble for the chop-socky moves. Fortunately I have a later model RN where the head will flash on low voltage. I set it to flash at 5.8 volts.

I have another newb question. What is the difference between the regulator in the controller board and the one I’ve installed? I’ve read where connecting a 7.4v to the battery connector on the controller board may overheat and fry something?
Hey all,
It all started when I realized I have many 7.4v LiPos from my micro-heli ventures. Decided to put them to use in the RN-1.

So last week I found the Novak 5460 6v regulator for 20 bucks (retail). The output is rated for 6v@3 amp with 8.4v input. Not sure if it’d be enough to run chainsaws or saw blades, but it’s been working great in my RN-1 with two gyros. Everything runs as cool as a cucumber.


The Novak 5460 included all the wires attached with a power switch.
Image


I removed all pre-installed wires and soldered my own.
Image


Done. Foam mounted the regulator on the controller board. The blue LED on the regulator has a cool glowing effect when the back shell is installed.
Image


One definite plus is the decrease in weight from LiPos vrs. the stock NiMH pack. More nimble for the chop-socky moves. Fortunately I have a later model RN where the head will flash on low voltage. I set it to flash at 5.8 volts.

I have another newb question. What is the difference between the regulator in the controller board and the one I’ve installed? I’ve read where connecting a 7.4v to the battery connector on the controller board may overheat and fry something?
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Post by beermat » Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:54 am

Post by beermat
Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:54 am

Looks nice. Where dya get the regulator? Having trouble locating that one....
Looks nice. Where dya get the regulator? Having trouble locating that one....
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Post by bauermech » Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:42 am

Post by bauermech
Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:42 am

Ha! I bought that one as an emergency backup in case my other one failed at the event. It had a clear shrink-plastic over it didn't it? I ended up returning it and getting the one I have been using. The amp rating scared me off. In a full stall, the 5995 servo in Pawn's chest can have a max amp draw of almost 5A by itself.

I never had a chance to try that regulator out - how's the heat disopation? Keep us posted on it's health/life-span. :)
Ha! I bought that one as an emergency backup in case my other one failed at the event. It had a clear shrink-plastic over it didn't it? I ended up returning it and getting the one I have been using. The amp rating scared me off. In a full stall, the 5995 servo in Pawn's chest can have a max amp draw of almost 5A by itself.

I never had a chance to try that regulator out - how's the heat disopation? Keep us posted on it's health/life-span. :)
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Post by bauermech » Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:46 am

Post by bauermech
Wed Sep 27, 2006 10:46 am

Looks nice. Where dya get the regulator? Having trouble locating that one....

I found one at my local hobby shop.
Looks nice. Where dya get the regulator? Having trouble locating that one....

I found one at my local hobby shop.
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Post by beermat » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:22 am

Post by beermat
Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:22 am

Stop going on about 'local hobby shops', ok? I dont have one. Didnt have one at my old address. This just isnt fair to taunt me.

So, Matt, which one did you get?
Stop going on about 'local hobby shops', ok? I dont have one. Didnt have one at my old address. This just isnt fair to taunt me.

So, Matt, which one did you get?
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Post by Zembot » Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:48 am

Post by Zembot
Thu Sep 28, 2006 12:48 am

Ordered mine from http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXJJF6&P=7

I know the feeling about not having a local hobby shop. I traveled 40 minutes to the “big city” (pop. 35,000) to get connectors for my gyros :!:

Yep it does come with a clear shrink cover. I had removed it before I took the pic.

The regulator can get warm after heavy use. Although it’s never shut down from overheating or current overload.

Oops I mentioned having set the low voltage to 5.8v (default). My mistake, meant to say 5.7. Anyhow I have noticed a weird problem with the head flashing/not flashing. I’m working on that problem. Hopefully it’s horked code and not a characteristic of using Lipos or the regulator.

Overall I’m glad to be using the lipos I’ve accumulated. Now if I could only make it’s head flash at the appropriate time…. hmm.
Ordered mine from http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... LXJJF6&P=7

I know the feeling about not having a local hobby shop. I traveled 40 minutes to the “big city” (pop. 35,000) to get connectors for my gyros :!:

Yep it does come with a clear shrink cover. I had removed it before I took the pic.

The regulator can get warm after heavy use. Although it’s never shut down from overheating or current overload.

Oops I mentioned having set the low voltage to 5.8v (default). My mistake, meant to say 5.7. Anyhow I have noticed a weird problem with the head flashing/not flashing. I’m working on that problem. Hopefully it’s horked code and not a characteristic of using Lipos or the regulator.

Overall I’m glad to be using the lipos I’ve accumulated. Now if I could only make it’s head flash at the appropriate time…. hmm.
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Post by Zembot » Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:00 am

Post by Zembot
Thu Sep 28, 2006 1:00 am

beermat wrote:So, Matt, which one did you get?

Yep I'd also like the one Matt has :) Being able to handle 5 amps versus 3 would be great!
beermat wrote:So, Matt, which one did you get?

Yep I'd also like the one Matt has :) Being able to handle 5 amps versus 3 would be great!
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Post by bauermech » Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:01 am

Post by bauermech
Thu Sep 28, 2006 2:01 am

Stop going on about 'local hobby shops', ok? I dont have one. Didnt have one at my old address. This just isnt fair to taunt me.

:lol: Sorry...

Yeeeh I want the one Matt has


I don't know if you do. The one I have works, but probably isn't the best solution. Here's what I've found & learned:
I used an MPI Miracle Switch... modified. It no longer has the switch, and the thin leads (that claim to support the 20A peak/10A continuos) were replaced with a heavier gauge wire. There are two pots on the board. I played around w/ em in hopes it was an output adjustment, but they just set the cutoff/bypass. The sucker gets hot, so the actual regulator is held fast to my bot's aluminum body. As a preventative measure against acute power drops (that moment when a large number of servos is initiated), I have additional capacitors socketed into the servo ports. Wasn't sure how effective it'd end up being, but hasn't dead-band since. Take it as you will... I'm not claiming anything other than that. :wink:
MPI makes another regulator that I haven't tried yet... it has adjustable output and a large heat sink. I should mention that both of these I'm talking about take up more space than the one Zembot has. That can be a big deal considering.
The regulator I'm using is mainly used in RC planes to safe-guard against crashing... even if the regulator fails, the current is bypassed around to keep it juiced until it lands. ...So if Rook's Pawn starts flying, we're all set. :)
Subpilot (who's still at sea I imagine) turned me onto the TI DC/DC buck converters. They don't waste power by turning all the excess current into heat like the linear regulators do. I picked up a couple evaluation boards, but have yet to find time to work on 'em. ...Though here again, their amp rating is a little too low for all the servos I'm running.
The best saniero is to only regulate the microcontroller, and power the servos directly off the battery. BUT, the HSR-8498's can't hack it... they're not lying when they say 6v operating voltage (yes, I'm sure :wink: ). There's where Hitec's new servo line will shine. They're rated for 6v and 7.4v!

I have noticed a weird problem with the head flashing/not flashing. I’m working on that problem. Hopefully it’s horked code and not a characteristic of using Lipos or the regulator.

You're right, you'll want to adjust your code.
I know this has been mentioned elsewhere, but to save you from hunting.. the blinking LED is not a good way to ensure your Li-Poly's are safe form over-discharge. The circuitry for detecting low voltage should be pre-regulator, and have a cut-off/power-down. I don't have a cutoff on mine either... ???? (shrug). I did pick up a 10 increment LED indicator that'll visually display the voltage. I MUST keep an eye on it because over-discharging the cells even once starts a chemical reaction inside that is irreversible. Your battery will never be the same after.

:roll: Okay, I've ranted on long enough...
Stop going on about 'local hobby shops', ok? I dont have one. Didnt have one at my old address. This just isnt fair to taunt me.

:lol: Sorry...

Yeeeh I want the one Matt has


I don't know if you do. The one I have works, but probably isn't the best solution. Here's what I've found & learned:
I used an MPI Miracle Switch... modified. It no longer has the switch, and the thin leads (that claim to support the 20A peak/10A continuos) were replaced with a heavier gauge wire. There are two pots on the board. I played around w/ em in hopes it was an output adjustment, but they just set the cutoff/bypass. The sucker gets hot, so the actual regulator is held fast to my bot's aluminum body. As a preventative measure against acute power drops (that moment when a large number of servos is initiated), I have additional capacitors socketed into the servo ports. Wasn't sure how effective it'd end up being, but hasn't dead-band since. Take it as you will... I'm not claiming anything other than that. :wink:
MPI makes another regulator that I haven't tried yet... it has adjustable output and a large heat sink. I should mention that both of these I'm talking about take up more space than the one Zembot has. That can be a big deal considering.
The regulator I'm using is mainly used in RC planes to safe-guard against crashing... even if the regulator fails, the current is bypassed around to keep it juiced until it lands. ...So if Rook's Pawn starts flying, we're all set. :)
Subpilot (who's still at sea I imagine) turned me onto the TI DC/DC buck converters. They don't waste power by turning all the excess current into heat like the linear regulators do. I picked up a couple evaluation boards, but have yet to find time to work on 'em. ...Though here again, their amp rating is a little too low for all the servos I'm running.
The best saniero is to only regulate the microcontroller, and power the servos directly off the battery. BUT, the HSR-8498's can't hack it... they're not lying when they say 6v operating voltage (yes, I'm sure :wink: ). There's where Hitec's new servo line will shine. They're rated for 6v and 7.4v!

I have noticed a weird problem with the head flashing/not flashing. I’m working on that problem. Hopefully it’s horked code and not a characteristic of using Lipos or the regulator.

You're right, you'll want to adjust your code.
I know this has been mentioned elsewhere, but to save you from hunting.. the blinking LED is not a good way to ensure your Li-Poly's are safe form over-discharge. The circuitry for detecting low voltage should be pre-regulator, and have a cut-off/power-down. I don't have a cutoff on mine either... ???? (shrug). I did pick up a 10 increment LED indicator that'll visually display the voltage. I MUST keep an eye on it because over-discharging the cells even once starts a chemical reaction inside that is irreversible. Your battery will never be the same after.

:roll: Okay, I've ranted on long enough...
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Post by Zembot » Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:04 am

Post by Zembot
Fri Sep 29, 2006 1:04 am

Thanks bauermech. Jeez I have a ways to go before attempting what you said (yep I asked for it) :) For now I’m actively searching a 6v cutoff, among other things.
Thanks bauermech. Jeez I have a ways to go before attempting what you said (yep I asked for it) :) For now I’m actively searching a 6v cutoff, among other things.
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bringing this one back

Post by NewBreedWarrior » Thu Mar 01, 2007 5:29 am

Post by NewBreedWarrior
Thu Mar 01, 2007 5:29 am

I felt like this needed to be brought back into the board, http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? ... egoryID=48 that is sounding nice...but I have no idea if it will work. the amps sound nice and I am wanting to add a regulator for the amount of servos and mods, ie: Sonar/ GP2D12, volt monitor, hip rotation, hands...ect ect. with that said should I find a better one or get the one I found? I have noticed that all of us are adding more and more to our bots..ports are running low and space.....
I felt like this needed to be brought back into the board, http://www.lynxmotion.com/Product.aspx? ... egoryID=48 that is sounding nice...but I have no idea if it will work. the amps sound nice and I am wanting to add a regulator for the amount of servos and mods, ie: Sonar/ GP2D12, volt monitor, hip rotation, hands...ect ect. with that said should I find a better one or get the one I found? I have noticed that all of us are adding more and more to our bots..ports are running low and space.....
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Post by CaptKill4Fun » Sat Sep 22, 2007 8:08 pm

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Sat Sep 22, 2007 8:08 pm



8) Hi,

I got the Maxx Products Int'l ACC134 6-Volt Regulator US$19.50

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html

It seems the best solution for the $ at this time ...

but it ain't small ...

The package from one end to the end of the capicitor is 63mm x 20mm x 12mm but it easily fits up inside the RoboNova-1.



8) Hi,

I got the Maxx Products Int'l ACC134 6-Volt Regulator US$19.50

http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-21.html

It seems the best solution for the $ at this time ...

but it ain't small ...

The package from one end to the end of the capicitor is 63mm x 20mm x 12mm but it easily fits up inside the RoboNova-1.

:
"http://www.OPECoftheWest.com/"
Purveyors of Autonomous & R/C Robot Games ...
:
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Post by klims » Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:40 pm

Post by klims
Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:40 pm

been doing a fair bit of research on these puppies. this seems to be the winner i think. smallest i can find with the highest current rating.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc_bec.html
been doing a fair bit of research on these puppies. this seems to be the winner i think. smallest i can find with the highest current rating.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc_bec.html
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Post by badlands » Sun Feb 24, 2008 3:25 pm

Post by badlands
Sun Feb 24, 2008 3:25 pm

I like that one klims but it looks like you need a USB link lead @ $24.95 just to adjust the voltage up to 6v.

Shame...

:-(
I like that one klims but it looks like you need a USB link lead @ $24.95 just to adjust the voltage up to 6v.

Shame...

:-(
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Post by badlands » Sun Feb 24, 2008 4:02 pm

Post by badlands
Sun Feb 24, 2008 4:02 pm

Im curious to see what people have done with their lipo set ups.

http://robosavvy.com/store/product_info ... 1ea96ff768

I was thinking 2 x these in series giving me 7.4v @ 2A.

Will these fit inside the stock chest cavity?

or are people using the smaller 1.2A version lipos?
Im curious to see what people have done with their lipo set ups.

http://robosavvy.com/store/product_info ... 1ea96ff768

I was thinking 2 x these in series giving me 7.4v @ 2A.

Will these fit inside the stock chest cavity?

or are people using the smaller 1.2A version lipos?
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Post by klims » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:57 am

Post by klims
Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:57 am

i guess that would be a problem if you didn't have one. but wouldn't you rather the voltage at 5v for faster servo movement anyway? i haven't actually got my biped moving yet...

i'm using these lipos. cheapest i could find and they fit the empty space on my robot perfectly.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360024059701&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=023

personally i wouldn't go Lion technology coz its crap. 2C at 2000mAh is 4A max, which for 2 cells is 8A max. from what i have seen instantaneous current draw for high energy moves can be over 10A, so you would find these cells would die after not a whole lot of use.

Lipos on the other hand have a massive discharge. at least 10C, with some that go up to 40C burst. heaps of power
i guess that would be a problem if you didn't have one. but wouldn't you rather the voltage at 5v for faster servo movement anyway? i haven't actually got my biped moving yet...

i'm using these lipos. cheapest i could find and they fit the empty space on my robot perfectly.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360024059701&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=023

personally i wouldn't go Lion technology coz its crap. 2C at 2000mAh is 4A max, which for 2 cells is 8A max. from what i have seen instantaneous current draw for high energy moves can be over 10A, so you would find these cells would die after not a whole lot of use.

Lipos on the other hand have a massive discharge. at least 10C, with some that go up to 40C burst. heaps of power
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