by PaulL » Sun May 27, 2012 3:49 pm
by PaulL
Sun May 27, 2012 3:49 pm
It's always good to test a spray on the plastic. Some soft plastics can be problematic. I can check the potentiometer in the burned out servo I have and see if there's an easy and non-destructive way to pull the shell off.
Regarding the lithium grease - I'd say NO to that stuff for ANYTHING in a servo! What I've seen is thick and very sticky, and not good for things that have to spin fast. I use some on my metal working machines, but only for slow moving purposes (manually rotated bits, etc).
I use the Hitec-branded servo grease in my servos (it's thin, but won't run away like oil). Be sure to use only as much grease as is needed - too much is as bad or worse than not enough. When you say the motor is tight, do you mean when you rotate the brass gear? You should feel the magnets when you turn the shaft, but the motor shouldn't be "tight" (but then, as I recall, there is no easy way to turn the shaft).
These motors are sealed, meaning they can't be easily lubricated properly. They're not even intended to be lubricated! But, as something to try, you would:
* Remove any grease on the gear end of the motor.
* Apply a drop to the bushing /axle area.
* Power it on without the adjacent gear and listen for the RPM to increase, meaning the oil is working in (no more than a matter of seconds should be necessary).
* Power down, clean excess, repeat a few times.
One thing to note about these motors - they have a fixed lifetime because they are sealed brushed motors. Once the brushes wear out, the motor is done. It would be nice if servos used motors with replaceable brushes, or better yet brushless motors, but it seems the majority use sealed brushed motors. In the case of Hitec, it's more frustrating because of how the motor is mounted to the casing - if you could find a replacement motor, getting the old one out is still a problem.
It's always good to test a spray on the plastic. Some soft plastics can be problematic. I can check the potentiometer in the burned out servo I have and see if there's an easy and non-destructive way to pull the shell off.
Regarding the lithium grease - I'd say NO to that stuff for ANYTHING in a servo! What I've seen is thick and very sticky, and not good for things that have to spin fast. I use some on my metal working machines, but only for slow moving purposes (manually rotated bits, etc).
I use the Hitec-branded servo grease in my servos (it's thin, but won't run away like oil). Be sure to use only as much grease as is needed - too much is as bad or worse than not enough. When you say the motor is tight, do you mean when you rotate the brass gear? You should feel the magnets when you turn the shaft, but the motor shouldn't be "tight" (but then, as I recall, there is no easy way to turn the shaft).
These motors are sealed, meaning they can't be easily lubricated properly. They're not even intended to be lubricated! But, as something to try, you would:
* Remove any grease on the gear end of the motor.
* Apply a drop to the bushing /axle area.
* Power it on without the adjacent gear and listen for the RPM to increase, meaning the oil is working in (no more than a matter of seconds should be necessary).
* Power down, clean excess, repeat a few times.
One thing to note about these motors - they have a fixed lifetime because they are sealed brushed motors. Once the brushes wear out, the motor is done. It would be nice if servos used motors with replaceable brushes, or better yet brushless motors, but it seems the majority use sealed brushed motors. In the case of Hitec, it's more frustrating because of how the motor is mounted to the casing - if you could find a replacement motor, getting the old one out is still a problem.