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Bing 3

Discussions regarding building a walking robot at home. Most of the robots participating at Robo-One competitions are custom fabricated.
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134 postsPage 2 of 91, 2, 3, 4, 5 ... 9

Post by DerekZahn » Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:19 am

Post by DerekZahn
Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:19 am

Merry Christmas everybody! While waiting for Santa I got in some quality Bing time. Here's the two ankle pods, wired up and with a batch of freshly-baked microcontroller code. They communicate successfully with my very rudimentary PC-based monitor program.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3s.jpg

Here's a few shots illustrating some of how the wiring gets routed. Some flanged plastic bushings get a groove cut in them for an eventual e-clip and then get put into bearings:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3t.jpg

Here's the bearings pressed into the mounting plates:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3u.jpg

And finally the whole thing bolted into place:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3v.jpg
Merry Christmas everybody! While waiting for Santa I got in some quality Bing time. Here's the two ankle pods, wired up and with a batch of freshly-baked microcontroller code. They communicate successfully with my very rudimentary PC-based monitor program.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3s.jpg

Here's a few shots illustrating some of how the wiring gets routed. Some flanged plastic bushings get a groove cut in them for an eventual e-clip and then get put into bearings:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3t.jpg

Here's the bearings pressed into the mounting plates:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3u.jpg

And finally the whole thing bolted into place:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3v.jpg
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Post by djmartins » Tue Dec 26, 2006 2:13 pm

Post by djmartins
Tue Dec 26, 2006 2:13 pm

I must say, nice work.

Please keep posting even of you get few replies as I am sure many are left speechless!

regards!
I must say, nice work.

Please keep posting even of you get few replies as I am sure many are left speechless!

regards!
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Post by Dimitris » Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:21 pm

Post by Dimitris
Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:21 pm

Wow! Very detailed and professional work! I like! Please keep posting as it progresses! Best of luck! :lol:
Wow! Very detailed and professional work! I like! Please keep posting as it progresses! Best of luck! :lol:
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Post by DerekZahn » Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:46 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:46 pm

Thanks guys! I can tell from the numbers that some people are reading; I don't really expect a lot of comments... I just know how much pleasure I have gotten from reading reports from the Japanese Robo-One builders and hope that others can get a little fun from seeing what I'm up to.

Even though I try to find bargains where I can (you can get the HSR-5995TG servos for $90 - $95 on Ebay and also cheap bearings, plus I have a plastics shop nearby that sells scrap Delrin pretty inexpensively), Bing is not a low-budget project... probably three times the cost of a Robonova kit by the time it's all done. Also, not many people have CNC milling machines so probably a lot of the specifics of what I'm doing are not that "useful" for other builders on this forum. But hopefully it can be entertaining at least and maybe will inspire a thought or two in somebody at some point.
Thanks guys! I can tell from the numbers that some people are reading; I don't really expect a lot of comments... I just know how much pleasure I have gotten from reading reports from the Japanese Robo-One builders and hope that others can get a little fun from seeing what I'm up to.

Even though I try to find bargains where I can (you can get the HSR-5995TG servos for $90 - $95 on Ebay and also cheap bearings, plus I have a plastics shop nearby that sells scrap Delrin pretty inexpensively), Bing is not a low-budget project... probably three times the cost of a Robonova kit by the time it's all done. Also, not many people have CNC milling machines so probably a lot of the specifics of what I'm doing are not that "useful" for other builders on this forum. But hopefully it can be entertaining at least and maybe will inspire a thought or two in somebody at some point.
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Post by DerekZahn » Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:05 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Wed Dec 27, 2006 6:05 pm

While I work on little bits and doodads for Bing's feet, I thought it might be interesting to illustrate what I do to the servos -- I like to get position feedback which involves adding one wire to the servos. The processor inside the HSR-5995TG uses the voltage from the center terminal of the built-in potentiometer to determine the servo's position, so I want to expose that same voltage to my electronics.

I start by securely mounting the servo:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo1.jpg

Removing the back of the servo reveals the electronics board, which has to be removed to get at the potentiometer. The motor is directly mounted to the electronics board in three places (two power leads and a case ground).


Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo2.jpg

The solder has to be removed to get the board off. Do NOT try to just pry the board out. Either the motor leads will break or the back of the motor will come off, both bad! You could probably do this with solder braid but they make tools to do this sort of thing that aren't too expensive:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo2a.jpg

Here's what it looks like with the solder removed:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo3.jpg

Now the board comes off, revealing the insides of the servo. There are two spots that the new wire could be added -- either directly to the potentiometer or to the spot where the yellow wire attaches to the circuit board. I find it easier to attach it to the potentiometer.

There's a pretty sizable empty space above the potentiometer which leaves plenty of room for the new wire. If I recycle these servos someday for Bing 4, I might try putting the extra servo electronics into a little board that will mount directly onto the potentiometer, to provide a serial bus, position feedback, and maybe also current sensing. So it would be like the OpenServo project except I'd leave the motor control transistors and processing alone.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo4.jpg

A lot of what I do is pretty delicate soldering, and it helps to have a decent soldering iron (though 50 watts is more than plenty). I also use the pointiest tips that I can find, and I keep them filed to a pretty sharp point. You're probably not supposed to take a file to the tips for some reason, but it works for me.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo5.jpg

In almost all cases, it's a good idea to put a bit of solder on the end of a wire before attaching it to its destination. It makes the soldering go much more smoothly and makes sure that the wire strands don't go flying in all directions.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo6.jpg

Here's the result after the modification. Besides adding the new wire, I also trim off part of the strain relief, because my designs tend to not like the big strain relief thing sticking out of the side of the servo.

I believe the servo warranty is no longer valid, ha ha!

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo7.jpg

Put the electronics back on and solder it back up. THe brown discoloration is just solder flux and is harmless.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo8.jpg

And then put the back on again. I don't use the rear swivel so I use the alternate back.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo9.jpg
While I work on little bits and doodads for Bing's feet, I thought it might be interesting to illustrate what I do to the servos -- I like to get position feedback which involves adding one wire to the servos. The processor inside the HSR-5995TG uses the voltage from the center terminal of the built-in potentiometer to determine the servo's position, so I want to expose that same voltage to my electronics.

I start by securely mounting the servo:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo1.jpg

Removing the back of the servo reveals the electronics board, which has to be removed to get at the potentiometer. The motor is directly mounted to the electronics board in three places (two power leads and a case ground).


Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo2.jpg

The solder has to be removed to get the board off. Do NOT try to just pry the board out. Either the motor leads will break or the back of the motor will come off, both bad! You could probably do this with solder braid but they make tools to do this sort of thing that aren't too expensive:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo2a.jpg

Here's what it looks like with the solder removed:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo3.jpg

Now the board comes off, revealing the insides of the servo. There are two spots that the new wire could be added -- either directly to the potentiometer or to the spot where the yellow wire attaches to the circuit board. I find it easier to attach it to the potentiometer.

There's a pretty sizable empty space above the potentiometer which leaves plenty of room for the new wire. If I recycle these servos someday for Bing 4, I might try putting the extra servo electronics into a little board that will mount directly onto the potentiometer, to provide a serial bus, position feedback, and maybe also current sensing. So it would be like the OpenServo project except I'd leave the motor control transistors and processing alone.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo4.jpg

A lot of what I do is pretty delicate soldering, and it helps to have a decent soldering iron (though 50 watts is more than plenty). I also use the pointiest tips that I can find, and I keep them filed to a pretty sharp point. You're probably not supposed to take a file to the tips for some reason, but it works for me.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo5.jpg

In almost all cases, it's a good idea to put a bit of solder on the end of a wire before attaching it to its destination. It makes the soldering go much more smoothly and makes sure that the wire strands don't go flying in all directions.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo6.jpg

Here's the result after the modification. Besides adding the new wire, I also trim off part of the strain relief, because my designs tend to not like the big strain relief thing sticking out of the side of the servo.

I believe the servo warranty is no longer valid, ha ha!

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo7.jpg

Put the electronics back on and solder it back up. THe brown discoloration is just solder flux and is harmless.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo8.jpg

And then put the back on again. I don't use the rear swivel so I use the alternate back.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/servo9.jpg
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Post by Joe » Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:19 pm

Post by Joe
Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:19 pm

DerekZahn wrote:If I recycle these servos someday for Bing 4, I might try putting the extra servo electronics into a little board that will mount directly onto the potentiometer, to provide a serial bus, position feedback, and maybe also current sensing. So it would be like the OpenServo project except I'd leave the motor control transistors and processing alone.

Neat work, Derek! You're braver than I — I'd be afraid to go modding such expensive servos (and with good reason, as I'd probably flub it up).

But now I have to ask... wouldn't it be both easier and cheaper to just use Robotis AX-12 servos? These already have a serial bus, position feedback, current sensing, and more, plus they're 16 Kg cm (stronger than these Hitec servos, I think?) and only $45 (substantially cheaper). Plus you don't have to void your warranty. :) Since you're everything else from scratch anyway, I'd think you could design your parts to fit whatever servos you want. So — if you don't mind me asking — why'd you choose the Hitecs?

Thanks,
— Joe
DerekZahn wrote:If I recycle these servos someday for Bing 4, I might try putting the extra servo electronics into a little board that will mount directly onto the potentiometer, to provide a serial bus, position feedback, and maybe also current sensing. So it would be like the OpenServo project except I'd leave the motor control transistors and processing alone.

Neat work, Derek! You're braver than I — I'd be afraid to go modding such expensive servos (and with good reason, as I'd probably flub it up).

But now I have to ask... wouldn't it be both easier and cheaper to just use Robotis AX-12 servos? These already have a serial bus, position feedback, current sensing, and more, plus they're 16 Kg cm (stronger than these Hitec servos, I think?) and only $45 (substantially cheaper). Plus you don't have to void your warranty. :) Since you're everything else from scratch anyway, I'd think you could design your parts to fit whatever servos you want. So — if you don't mind me asking — why'd you choose the Hitecs?

Thanks,
— Joe
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Post by DerekZahn » Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:34 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Wed Dec 27, 2006 7:34 pm

At 7.4v, these servos have 30 kg-cm of torque (39 kg-cm of holding torque) and a speed of 0.12 seconds for 60 degrees. I have not seen any other servo that can match those specs in the two ounce weight range. I started collecting them about 18 months ago so there might be something new out but I don't think so.

So these have over double the standing torque of the AX-12, are about 50 % faster, and weigh about the same. The price, serial bus, and 300 degree range of the AX-12 are nice though!
At 7.4v, these servos have 30 kg-cm of torque (39 kg-cm of holding torque) and a speed of 0.12 seconds for 60 degrees. I have not seen any other servo that can match those specs in the two ounce weight range. I started collecting them about 18 months ago so there might be something new out but I don't think so.

So these have over double the standing torque of the AX-12, are about 50 % faster, and weigh about the same. The price, serial bus, and 300 degree range of the AX-12 are nice though!
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Post by DerekZahn » Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:00 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:00 pm

The DX-117 in the same product line looks like an outstanding alternative, with torque specs that are very similar to the hitec ones. That model wasn't available when I started designing Bing 3 and began collecting servos, and they are kind of pricey ($190 I think).
The DX-117 in the same product line looks like an outstanding alternative, with torque specs that are very similar to the hitec ones. That model wasn't available when I started designing Bing 3 and began collecting servos, and they are kind of pricey ($190 I think).
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Post by Joe » Wed Dec 27, 2006 9:21 pm

Post by Joe
Wed Dec 27, 2006 9:21 pm

DerekZahn wrote:At 7.4v, these servos have 30 kg-cm of torque (39 kg-cm of holding torque) and a speed of 0.12 seconds for 60 degrees.

Zow, never mind then! I hadn't realized these were so beefy. You're absolutely right, you'd have to go to the DX-117 to get something comparable from Robotis, and those aren't nearly as compelling a value.

30 kg cm! Bing 3 should be quite a monster. Can't wait to see it when it's done. (Please be sure to put some good grippers on him — I hope to see him actually lift his opponent up over his head, and toss it out of the ring!)

Best,
— Joe
DerekZahn wrote:At 7.4v, these servos have 30 kg-cm of torque (39 kg-cm of holding torque) and a speed of 0.12 seconds for 60 degrees.

Zow, never mind then! I hadn't realized these were so beefy. You're absolutely right, you'd have to go to the DX-117 to get something comparable from Robotis, and those aren't nearly as compelling a value.

30 kg cm! Bing 3 should be quite a monster. Can't wait to see it when it's done. (Please be sure to put some good grippers on him — I hope to see him actually lift his opponent up over his head, and toss it out of the ring!)

Best,
— Joe
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Post by DerekZahn » Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:27 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:27 pm

Efforts to make various parts have resulted in a milestone being reached!

I don't intend to use the "bent aluminum bracket" building method very often, but it seemed like the best technique for attaching the ankles to the feet. When last you saw the feet, they had no covers attached but now they do:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3w.jpg

To help meet my goal of mimimum exposed wiring, I had to make covers for the ankle pods, which turned out to be a somewhat intricate task, but they came out fine:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3x.jpg

And finally, the finished assembly! Next step: knees!

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3y.jpg
Efforts to make various parts have resulted in a milestone being reached!

I don't intend to use the "bent aluminum bracket" building method very often, but it seemed like the best technique for attaching the ankles to the feet. When last you saw the feet, they had no covers attached but now they do:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3w.jpg

To help meet my goal of mimimum exposed wiring, I had to make covers for the ankle pods, which turned out to be a somewhat intricate task, but they came out fine:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3x.jpg

And finally, the finished assembly! Next step: knees!

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3y.jpg
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Post by bauermech » Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:15 pm

Post by bauermech
Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:15 pm

You're doing some amazing work my friend. I too can't wait to see Bling3 in action. RoboGames '07? The 5995's are tough cookies. I used one in the waist on my bot, and when he was powered up it was a near impossibility to twist it manually. ...And they're quite fast :)

I love the added feedback mod you've made to them, and the delrin enclosures are brilliant! 8)
You're doing some amazing work my friend. I too can't wait to see Bling3 in action. RoboGames '07? The 5995's are tough cookies. I used one in the waist on my bot, and when he was powered up it was a near impossibility to twist it manually. ...And they're quite fast :)

I love the added feedback mod you've made to them, and the delrin enclosures are brilliant! 8)
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Post by Joe » Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:19 pm

Post by Joe
Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:19 pm

Feet and ankles are assembled... seems to me that it's video time! Let's see those ankles twist and flex!

Cheers,
— Joe
Feet and ankles are assembled... seems to me that it's video time! Let's see those ankles twist and flex!

Cheers,
— Joe
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Post by DerekZahn » Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:31 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:31 pm

Thanks for the kind words Matt. I am definitely going to RoboGames and I hope Bing will be doing something by then! The construction isn't a problem, but the software is another story! I look forward to meeting other builders at RG!

Ha ha Joe, I don't think it's quite ready for video yet, but hopefully it won't be too long!
Thanks for the kind words Matt. I am definitely going to RoboGames and I hope Bing will be doing something by then! The construction isn't a problem, but the software is another story! I look forward to meeting other builders at RG!

Ha ha Joe, I don't think it's quite ready for video yet, but hopefully it won't be too long!
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Post by DerekZahn » Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:21 am

Post by DerekZahn
Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:21 am

My week of vacation between Christmas and New Year's continues, as yet another monster snowstorm attacks Colorado.

Instead of moving on to Bing's knees right away, I decided to make part of the torso because it seemed like fun to makea more complicated part.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3z.jpg

This is the part where the legs attach to the torso. On the bottom surface, I want to try to minimize the wobbling of the legs so I'm using some thrust bearings on the joint where the legs attach

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3a2.jpg

Here's a shot with the bearings installed:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3b2.jpg

Here most of the components are placed in position for a test-fit.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3c2.jpg
My week of vacation between Christmas and New Year's continues, as yet another monster snowstorm attacks Colorado.

Instead of moving on to Bing's knees right away, I decided to make part of the torso because it seemed like fun to makea more complicated part.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3z.jpg

This is the part where the legs attach to the torso. On the bottom surface, I want to try to minimize the wobbling of the legs so I'm using some thrust bearings on the joint where the legs attach

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3a2.jpg

Here's a shot with the bearings installed:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3b2.jpg

Here most of the components are placed in position for a test-fit.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3c2.jpg
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Post by DerekZahn » Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:51 pm

Post by DerekZahn
Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:51 pm

Lots of parts to make, and it's quite time consuming, but progress is being made. Here I'm cutting out some of the bits:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3d2.jpg

And here's a batch of parts ready for assembly. The black plastic parts are covers to hide the wiring as it makes its way down the legs.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3e2.jpg

I was hoping to have the legs finished in 2006 but I'm not sure I'll make it.
Lots of parts to make, and it's quite time consuming, but progress is being made. Here I'm cutting out some of the bits:

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3d2.jpg

And here's a batch of parts ready for assembly. The black plastic parts are covers to hide the wiring as it makes its way down the legs.

Image

bigger: http://happyrobots.com/bing3e2.jpg

I was hoping to have the legs finished in 2006 but I'm not sure I'll make it.
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